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HOBBIES | Home » » BLADE SR RTF ELECTRIC MICRO HELICOPTER | | | | | | | Description: | | If you're ready to step up from a coaxial or single-rotor fixed-pitch heli, the Blade SR is the absolute best way to make that transition a successful one. It comes out of the box programmed to provide softer climb, pitch and roll response around the center of stick movement. This, combined with the tough, two-piece main frame and lower head speed, makes the Blade SR more forgiving and easier to master than most conventional CP helis. Plus, it's big enough to fly outdoors even if there's a little wind. | | | Product Details: | | | Product Length:
| 22.5 inches | | Product Width:
| 9.5 inches | | Product Height:
| 7.5 inches | | Product Weight:
| 5.0 pounds | | Package Length:
| 22.3 inches | | Package Width:
| 9.8 inches | | Package Height:
| 7.8 inches | | Package Weight:
| 5.3 pounds | | Average Customer Rating:
|  based on 14 reviews |
| | | | Customer Reviews: | |
Average Customer Review:
 ( 14 customer reviews )
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
65 of 72 found the following review helpful:
 Much more difficult then AdvertisedAug 08, 2010
By Andi
Well, here we go, bought the product based on text and video reviews as well as the (deceiving) advertisement. Plus an attractive price point for the package. Having flown coaxial helis, the promise is to have an easy transition to collective pitch. For a number of reasons, there is no such thing like that. The physics are entirely different and so is the behaviour of the helis. If you are a novice pilot with only a few coax hours under your belt, you are in for a ride of a different kind. Here's what to expect:
- Adjust your expectations to fly the bird out of the box, it's not going to happen. Attaching the optional training gear becomes mandatory as you will likely only start to hop around while figuring out controls and behaviour
- watch the centre of gravity very well. The position of the battery is the means to control it and it for my bird the pictured mounting position in the instructions (cables to the front) does not work at all. The battery needs to be placed in the very front for the heli not to become tail heavy, so far ahead that the connection cable ended up too short and the canopy could no longer be attached. Ended up reversing the battery position, but be careful to keep the cables away from the main gear. That way you can actually also connect and disconnect the battery with the canopy attached which is not possible otherwise.
- at a minimum, read up on collective pitch mechanics and better play with the controls beforehand with the motors disconnected. While this is a marvel of engineering, it becomes deadly in flight if you don't know what it is doing. Get familiar with the concept of a pitch curve as well as the aeronautics of a CP helicopter.
- don't expect the heli to ascend linear to the throttle stick movement. Throttle controls two things, the speed of the rotor as well as the pitch of the main blades. You need to know that in zero stick position the blades have a negative pitch and in mid position of the throttle the pitch will be at 0. So in other words, with the stick half way up, the rotor obviously spins faster and heli becomes a bit lighter but is still on the ground. If you use the training gear, its good to watch that by way of the rods straightening out. Finally pushing the throttle further lifts the heli off the ground but be very careful not to work it too far and fast at the beginning or it ascends way to fast
- opposite, keep the pitch in mind when descending. Taking it down too fast may tip the blades into negative pitch and with the rotors spinning fast the heli gets actually 'sucked' to the ground.
- don't expect the heli to elevate like a coax, it's not possible with CPs. The main rotor's main momentum will always force the heli to break out. The tail rotor, mixer and gyro with balance that out to the best possible (which is their job) but the heli will still break out in the initial stages of lift off, which you need to compensate for with the controls, as well as always challenge you on the controls
- for the same reasons, don't expect the heli to hover easily or even on its own. You will always need to work the controls to maintain a stable hover position. So right here is a difference between coax and CP. In 'panic mode', releasing the controls of a coax will have it most likely hovering on its own and you can bring it down buy just using the throttle stick. There is no 'panic mode' for a CP heli...
- consider the ground effect of a low flying heli, it only becomes stable at an elevation higher that the rotor blade diameter. Below that the heli it a bit unstable and very difficult to keep in a pin-point hover position. Beginner problem right here, you don't want to go higher than a few inches at the beginning yet that's where the heli is the most unstable. Pushing it higher increases the risk of a crash as the training gear becomes less effective.
- consider that you always have to control (at least) four channels all the time. Further, the nature of a CP is that flight is controlled by pitch and position of the blades and each maneuver has a number of variables with interact with each other. That's the beauty of the beast, and a beast it still is.
So where are we now ? I personally consider this as entry into a more serious hobby, even if the advertisements as well as the price point of the Blade SR package may not suggest that. You are getting into CP helicopter flying, this is serious business. Impulse buy of an upscale RC toy ? You will not have fun with this at all.
In case you haven't noticed, every part can be ordered separately. Why ? You will need it sooner than you think. Make sure you have a hobby shop close by as well as a repair budget. In the unfortunate, but unavoidable, event of a crash, parts to have handy, before even thinking about a second battery
- rotor blades (the obvious). They are wooden blades and go first in a crash to avoid damage to the rest of the heli
- main gear. The powerful main motor may not stop soon enough and to avoid damage to the motor in case of a sudden rotor stop caused by outside forces, the main gear wheel has been declared the victim. It is of softer plastic and will give way. Depending how severely, you may be able to continue for a bit but the rotor will no longer spin evenly
- tail boom. By design, in case of a crash, the blades fold back and in the process may get pushed into the tail boom, which will get bent and potentially twisted. Again, depending on how severely you may be able to continue for a bit but a replacement is likely unavoidable. If twisted, the tail rotor will be out of position.
- tail motor mount. can go with the tail boom for the same reason
- tail motor. May burn out as it has to work very hard
How do I know ? Except for the tail motor burn out, I needed all of this after the maiden 'flight', which was not more than to hover the heli 'out of the box'. So much for ready to fly, it sure is not a toy. If there is an upside, parts do not set you back too much but it is mandatory to improve from the there.
Final rating: great helicopter by all means, well constructed and built, high quality electronics, full set of replacement parts. Why only so few points ? Simply since I feel I got fooled by E-Flight product positioning this being an entry level model which it clearly is not. Also, if you are only willing to pay the sticker price on the box, leave it on the shelve and move on to something else. You will need a budget beyond.
Have fun anyway,
25 of 26 found the following review helpful:
 Great value for beginner RC heli pilotsSep 09, 2010
By Kanishka Ray
I read some of the poor to mediocre reviews being given to the SR and thought I'd chime in with some thoughts.
I think the Blade SR is a great choice for beginner RC pilots, it's a cheap platform with some kid gloves worked in (a very forgiving rotor head and a dumbed down Transmitter), but with some options to upgrade it into a more advanced fully 3D flier.
This is not a self stabilizing helicopter like the CX2 or the mSR, and if you aren't used to a true collective pith heli, you will have a learning curve to master. Learning takes time, and it takes mistakes. You should factor in the cost of repairs into the general cost of ownership.
Some facts about my experience with the Blade SR:
1. I'm about two months into ownership, I've spent about an additional $75-$90 in parts and accessories so far. About 50% of that is for the cost of repairs.
2. I flew it out of the box, that is, I took it out of the box, put the batteries in, and flew it. (I'd only flown coax helicopters prior to it).
3. It is hard to fly. I did tiny little hops with it on my first day, and was scared every second it was off the ground.
4. You will probably crash if you aren't used to Collective Pitch helicopter. A couple crashes are normal...it's part of the hobby. I've crashed mine badly once. There were a couple of other minor incidents.
5. After the crash you'll fix things, and you'll learn how the bird works (which makes it a wonderful learning/educational "toy")
6. You'll then it fly it again and learn not to crash it so much.
After a few weeks of regular practice, you'll be comfortable with it (hovering and (tail-in) basic flight), and ready to move onto bolder things.
For the price that they are selling the SR for though, the cost of crashing isn't as brutal to the pocket book. E-Flite parts are a bit expensive...particularly for the main blades ($12-$13 a set), but I found a Chinese supplier (through Ebay) which sells SR compatible Wooden Blades for $2 a set. Bought a bunch, and now the cost of those blade strikes is really small.
The SR isn't without its' quirks. It has a direct drive tail rotor with a motor that struggles at times to overcome the torque of the main rotor. This manifests itself as a high pitched whine and a noticeable amount of tail wagging/oscillation. It's important in this regard to fly in short bursts of a few minutes at most each time, and then let the tail motor cool down a bit. Otherwise, your tail motor will be short lived. Flying it outdoors is also better as the increased ventilation with allow the motor to stay cooler and cool faster.
Parts supply for the SR is spotty at times, but getting better....but the good news is that most Blade CP parts will work with the SR.
Overall, if you're serious about learning how to fly and willing to invest the time, effort and some money....this is a comparatively inexpensive way to get into the hobby.
9 of 9 found the following review helpful:
Fantastic ProductMay 01, 2010
By Gregory Stoner
First this is not Toy Helicopter that you can fly the second you pull it out of the box. This Helicopter that you need put yourself with experienced trainer, or follow methodical training system for learning to fly, do not be in rush to get the bird of the ground.. If your interested in getting into the air fast, look at the Blade MSR Fixed Pitch or Blade CX2 Co-axial Helicopter, lot more stable and you can launch them from your hand.
I have to say the build quality is fantastic on this helicopter, and the stock radio is good starter transmitter, one thing if you if you want to learn with this chopper, get extra blades and at least two batteries, and the SR training gear.
I also own the MSR and few other lower cost Co-Axials, But for feel of stable larger bird this great helicopter for the money. It different thrill of spinning this bird from their smaller brothers.
8 of 8 found the following review helpful:
Blade SROct 16, 2010
By krtw
If you buy and use this helicopter for what it is intended for, you can't hardly go wrong..... This is an entry level collective pitch helicopter, built and setup for people learning to fly this type of helicopter. Eflite/Blade makes good stuff, they are cheap and easy to fix when you crash.....you will crash. I own 3 Eflite/Blade helicopters, love all of them.
Collective pitch helicopters are not easy to fly at first, if they were everybody would be doing it..... They require practice, patience and you really should be the type of person who likes to work on/fix electro-mechanical devices....why? because you will crash it and you will need to fix it. That being said, once you get the hang of flying you won't really crash as much anymore.... I don't recommend starting with this helicopter as your first, get a coaxial type and learn with that....they are much easier to learn with. Then get a Blade 120SR. I also recommend getting a flight simulator, it will help you a lot. Once you start flying well, you will be hooked.......if I can do it anybody can do it.
I wanted to add.... I flew this helicopter out of the box, 6 batteries worth of just hovering and I had NO crashes. Its VERY stable, but only if you know the basics. Keep in mind I started with a coaxial and had some Simulator time before this helicopter. I did eventually crash, but that was because I was pushing my skill level. If you are having issues flying this, like I said before you should consider getting a simulator or check out your local hobby shop or RC club you might find someone who will be willing to help you....
7 of 7 found the following review helpful:
Twitchy TailJul 17, 2010
By Z8
I impulse bought this heli while on a trip away from home for something to do. I'm proficient enough with the MSR that I if I fly it conservatively I'm in full control close to 100% of the time in any orientation, though it is no where near as precise as my MCX. So I thought for $200 I couldn't really go wrong with the SR as a logical next step.
Well, I'm not sure it was the right decision but I'm going to keep at it. I haven't crashed or really even come that close to crashing after 6 flights with training gear on. It is very challenging to keep the SR in a semi-stable hover compared to the MSR. Changing orientation is far more challenging because the skill set in a hover is about 60% different. What the MSR is to the MCX, the SR is to the MSR x 2.
The disappointing thing about the purchase is that the main roadblock to higher predictability seems to be the bumble bee electric tail rotor. If you have the copter well trimmed out, and are making no input whatsoever, the gyro is still constantly goosing the electric tail motor and it is clear that the control mechanism can't quite keep up--it isn't super precise. So the tail wags and even wonders a bit all the time, even in a hover with neutral controls. Depending on your gyro setup, the tail boom can dart unnervingly. I did manage to improve the setup by plugging in the tail gyro to the empty channel 5, for radio operated gain control. This lets you smooth the tail a bit without turning the gyro set screw between every attempt. I also put another piece of foam tape under the gyro (see youtube) and I moved the fly-bar weights all the way inward for slightly increased motor response. Oh, and I removed the seemingly useless mid-tail fin to make it a tiny bit less tail heavy. All these things have helped the copter be a little smoother and more precise.
That said, I have gotten more used to what tail slop there is, and after a few flights you can mostly ignore it and most errors cancel. But that's not the most rewarding thing either: tolerable bad behavior. But now that the heli is set up and I'm more used to it, it is starting to be a lot of fun.
I did one smart thing and bought the training gear. I would say the training gear is a requirement given how much better my SR is flying now that I have figured out the best battery position, trim and gyro settings--and it still is very difficult compared to the MSR. The first flights to set up both the heli and the radio resulted in a few wild spins and slides on the training gear, and that was being conservative to the extreme. Plus, there is no good throttle setting with the stock radio out of the box, it's either climbing or descending unless you are making repeated one-ratchet throttle changes. So keeping the SR from touching down repeatedly is not easy at all on the first flight. I would estimate a normal experienced novice like me will probably touch down by accident perhaps 20 times dialing in the first low-hover, if not more.
Seems the Blade 400 is probably a higher value way to go for the belt-driven tail alone. Price is not far enough apart to justify the SR's fundamental limitation of an electric tail. All that said, the SR is pretty cheap for what you get compared to the similar price MSR, and the radio is better than I thought it would be. 3 stars seems fair.
See all 14 customer reviews on Amazon.com
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